contenido educativo

What is Target Training? Target training is teaching your dog to touch a target (a mark or object) with part of their body (paws, nose, whole body!) Teaching paw targets to marks on the floor or whole body targets (stand, sit or down) on a mat are really useful and fun activities to teach your dog! We are going to be concentrating on nose targeting as it ties in well with muzzle training and can help to build your dogs’ confidence before, during and after muzzle training! Before: We can teach our dogs to nose target items such as plant pots, yoghurt pots, mugs or cups before your muzzle even arrives! It’s a great way to get your dog confident and happy with putting their nose into something in preparation for muzzle training. Teaching your dog to nose target your hand is also a really useful skill for engagement and moving your dog without conflict.   During: During muzzle training, we teach our dogs to nose target the actual muzzle! So the skill of nose targeting objects such as yoghurt pots is really transferable and useful. We want to be able to hold the muzzle in front of our dogs and they willingly nose target (put their nose inside) the muzzle.   If your dog is already happy to touch their nose on and in objects, it means that the process of muzzle training is already less scary and overwhelming! After: If your dog is already muzzle trained, you can introduce or practice nose targets to build your dogs’ confidence when moving around wearing their muzzle. If you make sure it’s a fun, engaging activity with lots of easy wins and reinforcement – it can help to build a positive association with wearing a muzzle. It is also a good way to get them used to the muzzle moving round or bumping slightly on their face as it inevitably will in the real world when they sniff and engage in activities on their walks. Before we get started… Using a marker in training What is a marker? Usually, it is either a clicker or word. A marker is used to bridge the gap between seeing a desired behaviour and getting a reinforcer to the dog. It says 'that was the behaviour I wanted, a treat is on it way!’. Once your dog understands their marker word, it allows us to communicate really clearly the exact moment we want to reinforce. It can be any word you want but popular markers are ‘good’, ‘yes’, ‘wow’ or ‘yip’. How do I teach my dog a marker? In an area with low distractions, call your dogs name. As soon as they look at you say your marker word and immediately reinforce them (give them a treat or engage in play). Repeat several times in multiple sessions. · Your dog will soon associate: marker = something great is about to happen. ·Check your dog's understanding by waiting for them to be a little distracted and say the marker word. If they ignore or don't notice, you need to do some more repetitions. If they look at your ready for their reinforcer, you’re good to go! How do I target train my dog? Nose target to hand: Most people use an open palm or a closed fist as the hand target so choose which works for you. If using an open palm, tuck a treat in between your fingers or if using a closed fist, hold the treat in your fist. Present the hand near your dog (not too close that it’s right in their face!) and as soon as they move their head towards or sniff your hand, immediately give them the treat! Repeat this a few times until they get the game. If your hand signals for sit, wait, paw or any other behaviours is an open palm, use a closed fist or even the back of your hand as the target instead to avoid confusion! Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present it a little closer to make it easier for your dog.   Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present your hand a little closer to make it easier for your dog. Once your dog seems to understand and is consistently targeting your hand with their nose, you can add in the verbal cue or command. Again, the cue can be any word but popular choices are ‘touch’ or ‘boop’. Say the verbal cue first then immediately present your hand, and mark and reward your dog for the target. It’s as easy as that! To progress your dogs’ hand target, practice presenting your hand from different angles and be sure to train with each hand. You can gradually increase how far your hand is presented from your dog to start encouraging them to move to touch your hand. Most dogs really enjoy it when you add in some more energy and movement as it feels more like a game! If you have already muzzle trained your dog, you can also practice hand targets while muzzled so they can have a fun experience in their muzzle. It can also be a nice way to get your dog moving comfortably when muzzled.   Nose target to a physical object: Ideas for physical markers: Post-it note Sticker Tupperware Lid Plastic Plat Credit card Cone Frisbee Choose a physical marker that you’d like to use and place it on the floor. If your dog seems disinterested, you can place a couple of treats on or around the target and as soon as they take the treat, use their marker word and put their reward on the target too. This encourages them to return to the target so you get another opportunity to mark and reward! Repeat several times. Now, sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food on the target and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or touches the target with their nose, mark and reward them! You can now give their reward from your hand rather than on the target. Repeat several times until your dog is consistently putting their nose on the target. To add in the verbal cue, lift the target off the ground. Say your cue - something like ‘target’ or ‘press’ are common choices, then immediately place the target back on the floor, mark and reward when your dog touches it with their nose. You guessed it....repeat several times! To check your dogs’ understanding of the verbal cue, leave the target on the floor, wait a few seconds then say the cue again. Mark and reward if your dog targets it with their nose and keep practicing with the target remaining in position. If you dog seems unsure, repeat the process a few more times until the association of the cue and the behaviour is built. Once your dog has got it, you can build on the game by moving the target to different areas or even sticking it to the wall or door. If your dog is muzzle trained you can now practice the nose target to a physical mark whilst wearing their muzzle! Target training to help muzzle training  Nose targeting a pot: If you don’t have a muzzle or are waiting for one to arrive, you can still make a start on building your dogs’ confidence with putting their nose in something! You can use an item like a plant pot or a yoghurt pot to practice! Place the pot on the floor on its side with a couple of treats sprinkled around it. Let your dog sniff and investigate. Once they seem comfortable, put a treat at the opening of the of the pot. Once your dog has taken a couple of treats this way, put the treat a little bit further inside. Repeat several times and only progress if your dog looks happy and comfortable. Now it’s time to see if your dog chooses to put their nose towards the pot themselves! Sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food in the pot and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated, then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or put’s their nose towards the pot, mark and reward them! Repeat several times. Gradually be more selective about when you mark and reward your dog - start to only reinforce them for their nose being at the opening of the pot, then when their nose goes inside the pot slightly, and build until your dog is putting their nose right into the pot! You can practice with the pot held in your hand and in different places around the house, garden and on walks!  

Dogs are generally really good communicators and can share how their feeling through their body language and behaviour. It's up to us to learn what they're saying, so we can help them and respond to them in the right way.  A lot of a dogs body language can easily be mistaken for different feelings and emotions so it's also important to look at the dog as a whole and consider the whole picture. Some signs that a dog is feeling comfortable include; a loose posture, a relaxed wagging tail, a soft expression and soft eyes with no signs of tension in the face or body. Signs such as a tucked tail, flattened ears and growling are common, well-known indicators of a dog feeling unhappy, but most dogs will show much more subtle gestures that can often be missed before reaching this stage. These less-obvious signals are called ‘appeasement gestures’ and can include; *Remember that not all dogs will show ALL of these appeasement gestures and these gestures don't always mean that the dog is scared - it's important to consider the context.* It’s also useful to know that a waggy tail isn’t always a happy tail, a stiff or frantic wag can indicate the dog is feeling unhappy! Displacement behaviours are often used by dogs to try and defuse any tension, to distract themselves or as a comfort. The behaviours are often ‘feel good’ behaviours so are replicated in times of stress. Displacements are often shown by people! If we're feeling nervous or worried about something we might play with our sleeves, play with our hair or just try to busy ourselves with something normal to take our minds off what is causing us stress! Dogs are just the same - if they feel worried or nervous they may sometimes do a normal doggy behaviour but out of context or to excess. Some examples include: You can spot if the dog is genuinely doing these behaviours because they are needed (they have an itch, they are tired, they are feeling playful etc) or if they are displacing instead by looking at the whole picture. Look out for appeasement gestures at the same time for more clues as to how your dog is feeling. Zoomies or fidgeting can be a signs a dog is feeling playful and excited, but it can also be an indicator of stress. We see this a lot in puppy/adolescent dogs, but any age dog can show this response. If a dog is worried or stressed they can actually become really bouncy or silly, perhaps gently grabbing you or toys nearby, what appears to be wanting to play chase (but may be avoidance) and just generally appearing excitable. It’s kind of like the dog is saying ‘I feel uncomfortable but I don’t know how to respond so I’ll do this to feel better and diffuse any tension!’ Dogs will often show that they are worried or unsure, simply by avoidance behaviours. This may be really obvious such as skirting around the muzzle or refusing to come near it at all. Some dogs may be much more subtle and simply turn their head or gaze away from the muzzle. If you find that your dog is avoidant, it is important to revisit the basics of building a positive association of muzzle = good stuff happening. You may need to start at a larger distance from the muzzle to begin with, and it’s important to remember that a dog ignoring or seeming disinterested in the muzzle doesn’t always mean they aren’t bothered by it! Watching a dogs’ body language Around the muzzle and during training will give you important information about how they're feeling. Sometimes dogs can have mixed emotions about things – including muzzles! This can mean reading their body language a little more complicated. If a dog is conflicted around the muzzle/muzzle training, they may feel worried by the muzzle but eager to take part in the fun training. You may see signs of avoidance and displacement behaviours. The best way to deal with this situation is to give the dog the option to move away if they feel the need to, take a short break or revisit and earlier, easier step in muzzle training. Further Reading Introducing The Ultimate Muzzle Training Guide – your go-to resource for mastering muzzle training with your dog! Whether you’re a seasoned dog guardian or new to training, this comprehensive digital guide provides a simple, step-by-step approach to introducing and training your dog to comfortably wear a muzzle. Using only force-free, positive methods, this guide is designed to suit any muzzle, making it a must-have addition for anyone looking to ensure their dog's comfort and safety. Instantly downloadable and accessible on any device, this guide allows you to start training right away, no matter where you are! Ready to get started? Download now and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with effective and compassionate muzzle training. SHOP HERE Discover The Muzzle Movement's Force-Free Promise: Committed to ethical training, partnering with like-minded professionals, and supporting force-free rescues and vets. Read More.