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Small dogs are easy to pick up. They're easy to carry into the vets, lift onto the examination table and hold still while somebody looks in an ear or examines a sore leg. And that's exactly why we need to think carefully about how we handle them. When a much larger dog doesn't want to go somewhere or doesn't want part of their body examined, their size means we often have to pay attention. We can't simply scoop them up and carry on. With a small dog, we physically can. But being able to hold a dog still doesn't necessarily mean they're comfortable with what's happening. As part of our Small Dogs, Big Feelings campaign, we want to encourage more guardians to think about muzzle training their small dogs, not because small dogs are more likely to bite, and not so that we can ignore what they're communicating and carry on regardless, but because they deserve the same preparation and consideration that we'd give a much larger dog.   What does a veterinary practice look like when you're tiny? It's worth thinking about vet visits from a small dog's physical perspective. An examination table that's a manageable height to us can be many times the height of a small dog. Once they're placed on it, getting down isn't necessarily an option. A veterinary professional leaning over to examine their face is much larger than they are, and even a human hand can cover a significant proportion of a very small dog's body. Then there's the equipment. A stethoscope seems pretty small to us, and against a larger dog's body. Against the chest of a tiny dog, it's proportionally much bigger. An otoscope approaching an ear, an ophthalmoscope coming towards an eye, clippers, thermometers, needles and all the other unfamiliar equipment involved in veterinary care can look, sound and feel very different when you're only a few kilograms yourself. That doesn't mean every small dog finds veterinary examinations frightening. Plenty of small dogs are very comfortable at vet visits. It simply means that scale matters, and it's worth considering when we're asking why a dog might be worried about something that seems completely ordinary to us. Small dogs can be moved through situations they wouldn't choose themselves Imagine a large dog who is worried about going into the vets. They stop outside the door. They hesitate when they're asked to enter the consulting room. They move away when somebody approaches them. They don't want to get onto the scales. Their reluctance can be difficult to miss. Now think about how easily we can move a small dog through those same situations. We can carry them through the front door, lift them onto the scales, pick them up again, carry them into the consulting room and place them onto the examination table. None of those things is inherently wrong, and there are plenty of situations where carrying a small dog is sensible or necessary. The difference is that their size makes it much easier for us to override their reluctance without necessarily meaning to. The same thing can happen during an examination. If a small dog turns their head away, pulls a paw back or tries to move away, it's physically quite easy to hold them in place. If they struggle, we can hold them a little tighter. If they growl or snap, there's also a risk of their behaviour being dismissed because they're small. They're "being dramatic." They're "feisty." They're "a typical little dog." But what if we stopped thinking about how easy the behaviour is for us to manage and started asking what the dog is trying to tell us?   Their feelings don't become smaller because their teeth are A bite from a small dog may pose a different level of injury risk from a bite from a much larger dog, but that doesn't tell us anything about how frightened, uncomfortable or overwhelmed the dog feels. If a small dog is freezing, struggling, growling, snapping or trying to bite during veterinary handling, that's information, and their size shouldn't determine how seriously we take it. Of course, veterinary professionals sometimes need to carry out procedures that dogs would rather they didn't. There will be situations where restraint is necessary, just as there will be dogs who benefit from pain relief, pre-visit medication, sedation or other changes to how their veterinary care is managed. Muzzle training can be another useful part of that preparation, not because putting a muzzle on means we can stop listening to the dog. A muzzle should never be permission to push a dog further simply because the risk of a bite has been reduced. Instead, positively training a small dog to comfortably wear a well-fitting muzzle means that if one is needed, we're not adding another unfamiliar or frightening experience to an already difficult situation. Small dogs hurt too There are also health reasons why preventative muzzle training deserves more consideration for small dogs. Some conditions are so commonly associated with particular types of small dog that we can almost start to think of them as normal. That little skip or "Jack Russell hop," for example, might be brushed off as a quirky way of walking, when skipping can be associated with patellar luxation. The "cute" Pug snorts can be a soft palate issue, and many small dogs have beautiful, big eyes which is often part of why they are so attractive, but these can be easily injured. Dental disease is another important consideration. Small dogs are particularly susceptible to periodontal disease, and examining a painful mouth requires somebody to work very closely around the dog's face. Ear infections, spinal and neurological conditions and other orthopaedic problems can all involve close handling and potentially uncomfortable examinations too, and can be commonplace for small breed dogs. The point isn't that every small dog will develop one of these conditions, it's that being small certainly doesn't protect a dog from pain, and pain can change how an individual feels about being touched. A dog who has happily tolerated having their legs moved, mouth examined or ears handled for years may feel very differently when that part of their body suddenly hurts. If they're already comfortable wearing their own muzzle, that's one less new thing to introduce if their veterinary team decides one would be useful at future vet visits. What if my small dog already uses aggressive behaviour at the vets? Small dogs who growl, snap or try to bite during veterinary handling aren't necessarily already comfortable wearing a muzzle. Sometimes the opposite is true. Due to the fact that they're physically easier to restrain, a muzzle might only appear when it's absolutely necessary and be put on quickly so that treatment can continue. The dog is already worried, they're being handled, and now an unfamiliar piece of equipment is being placed onto their face too. If that happens repeatedly, it's understandable that the muzzle itself can become part of the negative experience. Positive muzzle training gives us an opportunity to change that. Your dog's own muzzle can be introduced slowly at home. They can learn to put their nose into it voluntarily, take treats through it and gradually become comfortable wearing it. They can wear it on ordinary walks and during completely uneventful parts of life so that it doesn't only appear when something unpleasant is about to happen. Being small can make scavenging more significant too For dogs who pick up things they shouldn't on walks, a suitable muzzle can also be used to help prevent scavenging. Bodyweight can be particularly relevant when we're talking about toxic substances, because many toxic doses are calculated relative to the dog's weight. If a 4kg dog and a 40kg dog consume the same amount of a dose-dependent toxin, the smaller dog has potentially consumed a much greater amount relative to their bodyweight. Dropped medication is a good example of why size can matter. One tablet is still one tablet whether the dog who finds it weighs 4kg or 40kg. The size of an object relative to the dog can matter too when we're thinking about choking or gastrointestinal foreign bodies. Something that looks relatively insignificant to us can be substantial compared with a very small dog's airway or digestive tract. For a small dog who is a determined scavenger, an appropriately fitted muzzle can therefore have an important safety role.   Choosing the right dog muzzle for a small breed There's another misconception we'd really like to change: that some dogs are simply too small to need a "proper" muzzle. A small dog's muzzle should meet the same basic welfare requirements we'd expect for a larger dog. It should fit their individual face and should be secure and comfortable. A basket muzzle intended for normal wear should provide appropriate space for them to open their mouth and pant. And, importantly, they should be introduced to it properly. We don't want a dog simply tolerating something strapped around their face because they're small enough that we can put it there. We want them to understand the equipment and be genuinely comfortable wearing it. For very small dogs, the weight and scale of the equipment itself are also worth considering. This is one of the reasons we've put so much work into expanding the range of dogs who can comfortably wear The Muzzle Movement dog muzzle. Small dogs deserve thoughtfully designed equipment too, and we are working on going smaller. Small Dogs, Big Feelings We talk a lot about preparing dogs for veterinary care, and we've written separately about why we believe preventative muzzle training is a useful life skill for dogs generally.  Small dogs deserve a conversation of their own. Their size changes how they experience the world, but it also changes how we respond to them. It's easier to pick them up. Easier to move them. Easier to hold them still. Easier to laugh off a growl or a snap because we're confident we can physically manage what happens next. A small dog doesn't need to pose a significant danger to us before their fear matters. They don't need to have bitten somebody before they're worth muzzle training. And we don't need to wait until they're frightened, painful or urgently need a muzzle before we introduce one. Their feelings don't become smaller because their teeth are. Small dogs deserve choice where we can give it, thoughtful handling when we can't, equipment that actually fits them, and preparation for the situations life may throw at them. They might be little, but their feelings aren't.   The Ultimate Muzzle Training Guide Instant digital download £5.00 Get the Guide The Complete Dog Muzzle Training Course Video course + downloadable resources £69.00 Start the Course Mia Dog Muzzle Pre-order · Ships September 2026 £46.00 Shop Mia Jimmy Dog Muzzle Pre-order · Ships March 2027 £50.00 Shop Jimmy

Small Dogs, Big Myths: Rethinking Behaviour, Bite Risk and Muzzle Training Why "small dog syndrome" is a myth worth retiring, and how muzzle training benefits every dog, whatever their size. Muzzles have no breed,  and no size. Positive muzzle training benefits small dogs just as much as large ones. If you know anything about us here at The Muzzle Movement, you know how passionate we are about destigmatising and debunking myths around dog muzzles. We also know that muzzles have no breed. During conversations surrounding the XL Bully ban, several comments appeared repeatedly across social media, along the lines of: "It's not the big dogs that need muzzling, it's the little snappy Chihuahuas." It usually came from people defending larger breeds against unfair assumptions. And rightly so, judging any dog purely by its breed or appearance isn't helpful, and most of us now recognise that behaviour is far more complex than that. At the same time, these conversations highlighted something we perhaps don't think about often enough: while attitudes towards larger breeds are gradually becoming more nuanced, many of the same stereotypes still exist for small dogs. They're labelled "ankle biters", "rats", "yappy little things" or simply "badly behaved". Their growls are laughed at, their barking is dismissed, and because they're small, they're often not afforded the same understanding we increasingly encourage for larger dogs. The truth is that behaviour isn't determined by size. Whether a dog weighs 3kg or 50kg, understanding why they're behaving the way they are will always tell us far more than their breed or height ever could. Behaviour Doesn't Happen by Chance No dog is born "naughty" or "aggressive". Behaviour develops through a combination of genetics, learning, health, environment, previous experiences and the situations a dog finds themselves in throughout life. Breed history is an important part of that picture too. For hundreds of years, humans selectively bred dogs not just for how they looked, but for the jobs they performed. As a result, many breeds still retain behavioural tendencies that helped them carry out those roles (Serpell & Duffy, 2014). Take terriers, for example, many of our most popular small breeds belong to this group. Terriers were bred to locate, chase and dispatch vermin, so determination, persistence, prey drive and the motivation to grab and hold were all traits people actively selected for. Those instincts haven't disappeared simply because many terriers now spend their evenings curled up on the sofa. The same is true of several small herding breeds. Pembroke Welsh Corgis, Cardigan Welsh Corgis and Lancashire Heelers may be short in stature, but they were developed to move cattle by nipping at their heels before quickly getting out of the way. It's hardly surprising that some individuals still enjoy chasing moving feet, bicycles or running children. Of course, breed tendencies are only one piece of the puzzle. Every dog is an individual, and genetics are just one influence on behaviour. Understanding what our dogs were originally bred to do doesn't excuse unwanted behaviour, but it does help us understand where it comes from, so we can respond with appropriate training, management and enrichment. The World Looks Different From Six Inches Off the Ground It's easy to forget that a small dog experiences the world very differently to a Labrador or a German Shepherd. Almost everything is bigger than they are. People naturally lean over them, children rush towards them, unfamiliar dogs can seem enormous, and because they're easy to pick up, they often have far less control over their own space than larger dogs. Most people do these things with the very best intentions. Picking up a small dog may seem helpful, and bending down to say hello is simply human nature. But it's worth remembering that what feels friendly to us isn't always experienced the same way by the dog. Dogs naturally try to increase distance from things that make them uncomfortable before they resort to more obvious behaviours. Dr Karen Overall describes distance as one of a dog's primary coping strategies (Overall, 2013). If moving away isn't possible, or if their subtle communication is repeatedly overlooked, they may begin barking, growling or snapping instead. This is something many small dogs experience. Because their behaviour is less intimidating, it's often dismissed as funny or described as "small dog syndrome", when in reality the dog may simply be asking for a little more space. Listening to those early signals, whatever size the dog, is one of the simplest ways we can help prevent situations from escalating. So, Do Small Dogs Bite More? This is one of those questions where the science gives a more interesting answer than a simple yes or no. One of the largest studies investigating breed-related behaviour found that some smaller breeds scored more highly for aggression towards their guardians and unfamiliar people than many larger breeds (Duffy, Hsu & Serpell, 2008). However, aggression is a broad behavioural term. It describes behaviours intended to increase distance from something the dog finds uncomfortable, it doesn't necessarily mean a dog bites, and it certainly doesn't mean every dog of that breed behaves the same way. Another study found that smaller dogs were more likely to display behaviours such as fearfulness, excitability and aggression, but also highlighted that differences in training methods, consistency of handling and guardian engagement appeared to play an important role (Arhant, Troxler & Beetz, 2010). In other words, the picture is much more complicated than "small dogs are naturally aggressive". Genetics matter, but so do learning, environment, health, handling and life experiences. At the same time, larger dogs are capable of generating much greater bite force, meaning bites from larger dogs are more likely to result in serious injuries requiring hospital treatment. These findings aren't contradictory. Small dogs may display aggressive behaviour more frequently in certain situations, while larger dogs are more likely to cause severe injury if they do bite. Neither finding supports the idea that one group of dogs is inherently "better" or "worse" than the other. Small Bites Still Matter One misconception that occasionally surfaces is that bites from small dogs don't really count because the injuries are less severe. While it's true that larger dogs can inflict more serious physical injuries, small dogs are still capable of puncturing skin, causing painful injuries to hands and fingers, introducing infection and leaving lasting emotional impacts, particularly for children or people who already feel nervous around dogs. Dog bites are also far more common than many people realise. A UK community study estimated that almost one in four people reported having been bitten by a dog during their lifetime, yet only around one third of those bites required medical treatment (Westgarth et al., 2018). Many bites therefore never appear in hospital statistics at all. Rather than asking whether a dog is capable of causing catastrophic injury, perhaps the better question is how we can prevent bites from happening in the first place. Understanding behaviour, recognising early signs of discomfort and supporting dogs before they feel the need to bite benefits everyone involved. Where Do Muzzles Fit Into All of This? The reasons a dog may benefit from being comfortable wearing a muzzle have very little to do with their size. A small dog may need a muzzle while recovering from surgery, because they're in pain, during veterinary treatment, at the groomers, while working through behaviour modification with a qualified professional, or simply because they have a habit of scavenging things that could make them seriously ill. These are exactly the same reasons many larger dogs wear muzzles. Positive muzzle training allows dogs to become comfortable wearing a muzzle long before they actually need one. If an emergency arises or circumstances change, the muzzle itself isn't another unfamiliar or frightening experience. That's why we encourage guardians to think of muzzle training as a life skill rather than a last resort. A well-fitted muzzle is simply another piece of safety equipment that can help protect the dog, the people around them and the professionals caring for them if life doesn't go according to plan. Looking Beyond the Labels The more we learn about canine behaviour, the clearer one thing becomes: size tells us surprisingly little. A Chihuahua isn't automatically "snappy", just as a German Shepherd isn't automatically dangerous. Every dog is an individual shaped by their genetics, experiences, health, environment and learning throughout life. Moving away from stereotypes allows us to understand the dog in front of us rather than the label attached to them. It helps us recognise when they're feeling worried, frustrated or uncomfortable, and respond with kindness, empathy and evidence-based training. Whether a dog weighs 2kg or 50kg, they deserve that same understanding. And when it comes to muzzle training, the message remains exactly the same: any dog can benefit from learning to wear a muzzle positively, just in case. References Arhant, C., Troxler, J. & Beetz, A. (2010). Behaviour of smaller and larger dogs: Effects of training methods, inconsistency of owner behaviour and level of engagement in activities with the dog. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 123(3-4), 131-142. Duffy, D. L., Hsu, Y. & Serpell, J. A. (2008). Breed differences in canine aggression. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 114(3-4), 441-460. Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier. Serpell, J. A. & Duffy, D. L. (2014). Dog Breeds and Their Behavior. In The Domestic Dog: Its Evolution, Behaviour and Interactions with People (2nd ed.). Cambridge University Press. Westgarth, C. et al. (2018). Dog bites: A community study of prevalence, incidence and factors associated with dog bites in a UK community. Journal of Epidemiology & Community Health, 72, 331–336.

The principles of positive muzzle training remain the same regardless of a dog's size: go at the dog's pace, use positive reinforcement, and create positive associations with the muzzle. However, small dogs often experience muzzle training differently from their larger counterparts, and making a few adjustments can significantly improve their comfort and confidence. Whether you are introducing a muzzle for a small dog as a useful life skill, for vet visits, grooming, travel, scavenging, safety, or another reason, considering the experience from your dog's perspective can make muzzle training more comfortable and successful.   🐾 Think About Your Position For many small dogs, a human standing over them can feel intimidating. During muzzle training, guardians often unconsciously lean forward, reach down, or raise their hands above the dog's head to fasten the muzzle straps. From the dog's perspective, this can feel overwhelming. Whenever possible, position yourself at the dog's level. Sit on the floor, kneel beside them, or train while they are resting on a secure raised surface, such as a sofa, if they are comfortable there. Whatever setup you choose, ensure the dog always has the option to move away if they need a break. For example, provide safe steps down from a raised surface. Muzzle training should be something the dog chooses to participate in, not something they feel trapped into. This is especially important when muzzle training small dogs, where the difference in size between the dog and the person training them can make our body position and movements particularly significant. Your browser does not support the video tag. 🐶 Bring the Muzzle to the Dog When introducing a small dog muzzle, hold the muzzle at the dog's natural head height. This allows them to approach and investigate the muzzle without needing to stretch or balance awkwardly. The easier you make each repetition, the more likely your dog is to remain engaged. Positive muzzle training is about helping your dog build confidence around the muzzle and allowing them to actively participate in the process. Your browser does not support the video tag. 🦴 Consider How You Deliver Rewards A treat that seems tiny to a Labrador may be a substantial snack for a Chihuahua. Because small dogs have lower daily calorie requirements, guardians can quickly find themselves delivering a significant portion of the dog's daily food allowance during muzzle training sessions. This can lead to dogs becoming full before the session is complete and may contribute to unwanted weight gain over time. Using very small food rewards can help. Soft training treats can often be divided into multiple pieces, while spreads such as Primula or paste treats can be dispensed into smaller squeeze tubes or syringes for easy reinforcement. This allows you to continue creating positive associations with the dog muzzle while being mindful of the amount of food your small dog is consuming.   💛 Be Mindful of Physical Praise Not every dog enjoys being touched during training, and this can be particularly relevant for small dogs. Many small dogs are accustomed to people reaching for them, picking them up, or patting them on the head without warning. During small dog muzzle training, enthusiastic physical praise may interrupt learning or even make some dogs uncomfortable. Pay attention to what your individual dog finds rewarding. For some dogs, verbal praise and food rewards are more valuable than petting. Others may prefer a brief play session or the opportunity to move freely between repetitions. The dog's response should guide your choice of reinforcement. Positive muzzle training should always consider the preferences, comfort, and body language of the individual dog.   Your browser does not support the video tag. 🐕 Fastening Muzzle Straps Can Be the Hardest Part Owners often focus on teaching the dog to place their nose into the muzzle, only to discover that fastening the straps is where progress stalls. For small dogs, hands moving over their head can feel particularly intrusive. Rather than reaching suddenly over the dog's face, spend time building positive associations with gentle movements around the head and neck before attempting to secure the muzzle. Break the process down into small steps. Reward your dog for touching the straps, moving them behind the ears, briefly holding them together, and eventually fastening them for just a second before removing them again. Gradually, as your dog becomes comfortable, you can build up the amount of time the muzzle remains fastened. The goal is to make the fastening process as predictable and uneventful as possible. Remember that learning to put their nose into a dog muzzle and being comfortable with the muzzle being fastened are different parts of the training process. Your dog may need additional time and positive reinforcement for each stage. 👀 Watch for Subtle Signs of Discomfort During Muzzle Training Small dogs can sometimes communicate stress in ways that are easy to miss. Rather than obvious avoidance, they may: Freeze Lean away slightly Lower their head Stop taking treats Become unusually still These behaviours can indicate that muzzle training is progressing too quickly. Watching your dog's body language throughout each session allows you to adjust the training before they become overwhelmed. If your dog begins showing signs of discomfort, consider making the exercise easier, returning to an earlier stage, or giving them a break. Your dog's behaviour should determine the pace of muzzle training, rather than a predetermined training timeline.   🐾 Positive Muzzle Training for Small Dogs Whether you're muzzle training a Chihuahua, Dachshund, Pomeranian, Terrier, Toy Poodle, or another small dog, the goal remains the same: to create positive associations with the muzzle while helping your dog feel safe, comfortable, and confident. Small adjustments to your body position, reward delivery, physical praise, strap training, and awareness of subtle body language can make a significant difference to your dog's experience. A muzzled dog should still be listened to. Wearing a muzzle does not remove a dog's need for choice, space, appropriate handling, and consideration of their body language. Muzzle training should be something your dog chooses to participate in, not something they feel trapped into. By taking the process slowly and using positive reinforcement, you can help make wearing a muzzle a normal and predictable part of your small dog's life. Check out our Behind the Scenes at our muzzle fitting days for helpful support.  SEE MORE HERE

Muzzle training can be a handful – literally! Juggling the muzzle and treats, plus maybe a lead and a clicker, whilst also concentrating on watching your dog’s body language AND thinking about training and timing – it’s no wonder that many guardians find it a daunting prospect! Here, we are going to give you some tips on hands-free muzzle training, to help you if you are finding it difficult to handle everything! At the start of muzzle training, both you and your dog are learning! An ideal way of introducing the muzzle is to start with it placed on the floor. This gives you the opportunity to have your hands free for reinforcement and also prevents you from inadvertently pushing the muzzle towards the dog whilst you are getting into the swing of things. Simply place the muzzle on the floor, and scatter food or toys nearby to create a positive association with the muzzle. Once your dog is comfortable and happy taking treats from around the muzzle on the floor, you can start to use a clicker or marker to specifically reinforce when your dog looks at or sniffs the muzzle. Take it away and replace it a few times to help your dog get used to the movement and the sounds around the muzzle and offer them plenty of reinforcement on the floor so they continue to see it as a positive thing.     To see more, visit our ‘Introducing a muzzle’ blog You can also attach the muzzle to something, so you don’t worry about holding it. When fixing the muzzle somewhere, ensure that the muzzle is at the right height for the do to easily target – it needs to be right at the dogs’ nose height! Some useful items to use for attaching the muzzle are zip ties or Command sticky strips. Some ideas of where to fix the muzzle include: Attaching to a chair: You can use the straps to fix the muzzle to a chair or you could use zip ties.         Use a wall hook: These are easily available from hardware stores or Amazon. They can be attached to the wall, door frames, large heavy furniture such as dressers etc. (Remember to follow manufacturers guidance when sticking them and use a removable sticky strip such as Command if you want to be able to take it off again!) Simply hang the muzzle from the hook!   Make a muzzle stand: You can easily make a moveable muzzle stand at home! You could use something like a tripod or even a metal adjustable food bowl holder as the stand. If it is lightweight, you may need to weight it down at the bottom to prevent larger dogs from knocking it over. You can either zip tie the muzzle directly to the stand or affix a wall hook to the stand. A muzzle stand works really well as you can usually still access the treat hole of the muzzle for easy reinforcement!     We hope this blog has been helpful if you have been juggling too many things whilst muzzle training! To find out more about muzzle training, take a look at out downloadable e-guide!   

What is Target Training? Target training is teaching your dog to touch a target (a mark or object) with part of their body (paws, nose, whole body!) Teaching paw targets to marks on the floor or whole body targets (stand, sit or down) on a mat are really useful and fun activities to teach your dog! We are going to be concentrating on nose targeting as it ties in well with muzzle training and can help to build your dogs’ confidence before, during and after muzzle training! Before: We can teach our dogs to nose target items such as plant pots, yoghurt pots, mugs or cups before your muzzle even arrives! It’s a great way to get your dog confident and happy with putting their nose into something in preparation for muzzle training. Teaching your dog to nose target your hand is also a really useful skill for engagement and moving your dog without conflict.   During: During muzzle training, we teach our dogs to nose target the actual muzzle! So the skill of nose targeting objects such as yoghurt pots is really transferable and useful. We want to be able to hold the muzzle in front of our dogs and they willingly nose target (put their nose inside) the muzzle.   If your dog is already happy to touch their nose on and in objects, it means that the process of muzzle training is already less scary and overwhelming! After: If your dog is already muzzle trained, you can introduce or practice nose targets to build your dogs’ confidence when moving around wearing their muzzle. If you make sure it’s a fun, engaging activity with lots of easy wins and reinforcement – it can help to build a positive association with wearing a muzzle. It is also a good way to get them used to the muzzle moving round or bumping slightly on their face as it inevitably will in the real world when they sniff and engage in activities on their walks. Before we get started… Using a marker in training What is a marker? Usually, it is either a clicker or word. A marker is used to bridge the gap between seeing a desired behaviour and getting a reinforcer to the dog. It says 'that was the behaviour I wanted, a treat is on it way!’. Once your dog understands their marker word, it allows us to communicate really clearly the exact moment we want to reinforce. It can be any word you want but popular markers are ‘good’, ‘yes’, ‘wow’ or ‘yip’. How do I teach my dog a marker? In an area with low distractions, call your dogs name. As soon as they look at you say your marker word and immediately reinforce them (give them a treat or engage in play). Repeat several times in multiple sessions. · Your dog will soon associate: marker = something great is about to happen. ·Check your dog's understanding by waiting for them to be a little distracted and say the marker word. If they ignore or don't notice, you need to do some more repetitions. If they look at your ready for their reinforcer, you’re good to go! How do I target train my dog? Nose target to hand: Most people use an open palm or a closed fist as the hand target so choose which works for you. If using an open palm, tuck a treat in between your fingers or if using a closed fist, hold the treat in your fist. Present the hand near your dog (not too close that it’s right in their face!) and as soon as they move their head towards or sniff your hand, immediately give them the treat! Repeat this a few times until they get the game. If your hand signals for sit, wait, paw or any other behaviours is an open palm, use a closed fist or even the back of your hand as the target instead to avoid confusion! Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present it a little closer to make it easier for your dog.   Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present your hand a little closer to make it easier for your dog. Once your dog seems to understand and is consistently targeting your hand with their nose, you can add in the verbal cue or command. Again, the cue can be any word but popular choices are ‘touch’ or ‘boop’. Say the verbal cue first then immediately present your hand, and mark and reward your dog for the target. It’s as easy as that! To progress your dogs’ hand target, practice presenting your hand from different angles and be sure to train with each hand. You can gradually increase how far your hand is presented from your dog to start encouraging them to move to touch your hand. Most dogs really enjoy it when you add in some more energy and movement as it feels more like a game! If you have already muzzle trained your dog, you can also practice hand targets while muzzled so they can have a fun experience in their muzzle. It can also be a nice way to get your dog moving comfortably when muzzled.   Nose target to a physical object: Ideas for physical markers: Post-it note Sticker Tupperware Lid Plastic Plat Credit card Cone Frisbee Choose a physical marker that you’d like to use and place it on the floor. If your dog seems disinterested, you can place a couple of treats on or around the target and as soon as they take the treat, use their marker word and put their reward on the target too. This encourages them to return to the target so you get another opportunity to mark and reward! Repeat several times. Now, sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food on the target and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or touches the target with their nose, mark and reward them! You can now give their reward from your hand rather than on the target. Repeat several times until your dog is consistently putting their nose on the target. To add in the verbal cue, lift the target off the ground. Say your cue - something like ‘target’ or ‘press’ are common choices, then immediately place the target back on the floor, mark and reward when your dog touches it with their nose. You guessed it....repeat several times! To check your dogs’ understanding of the verbal cue, leave the target on the floor, wait a few seconds then say the cue again. Mark and reward if your dog targets it with their nose and keep practicing with the target remaining in position. If you dog seems unsure, repeat the process a few more times until the association of the cue and the behaviour is built. Once your dog has got it, you can build on the game by moving the target to different areas or even sticking it to the wall or door. If your dog is muzzle trained you can now practice the nose target to a physical mark whilst wearing their muzzle! Target training to help muzzle training  Nose targeting a pot: If you don’t have a muzzle or are waiting for one to arrive, you can still make a start on building your dogs’ confidence with putting their nose in something! You can use an item like a plant pot or a yoghurt pot to practice! Place the pot on the floor on its side with a couple of treats sprinkled around it. Let your dog sniff and investigate. Once they seem comfortable, put a treat at the opening of the of the pot. Once your dog has taken a couple of treats this way, put the treat a little bit further inside. Repeat several times and only progress if your dog looks happy and comfortable. Now it’s time to see if your dog chooses to put their nose towards the pot themselves! Sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food in the pot and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated, then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or put’s their nose towards the pot, mark and reward them! Repeat several times. Gradually be more selective about when you mark and reward your dog - start to only reinforce them for their nose being at the opening of the pot, then when their nose goes inside the pot slightly, and build until your dog is putting their nose right into the pot! You can practice with the pot held in your hand and in different places around the house, garden and on walks!  

Muzzle training isn’t always plain sailing! We are asking a dog to do something really different and quite strange... By trusting us to put their face into this colourful, unusual object, so it’s not surprising that we can sometimes run into some teething problems. Here, we will look at some of the common problems when muzzle training and how to overcome them! My dog is being naughty when muzzle training! If you feel your dog is mis-behaving during training, there is usually an underlying cause to the behaviour. Dogs aren’t just naughty – they are usually responding to the way they are feeling so remember to stay positive and don’t tell your dog off or punish them for ‘bad’ behaviour. If they are feeling a bit overwhelmed and unsure, this can easily make them feel worse and create a negative association with you, the muzzle and training in general. Try to stay patient and consider what reason your dog may have to behave in this way. My dog is ignoring me. If your dog doesn’t respond to you whilst training, it’s important to work out why. Are they ‘ignoring’ your marker word or clicker? It may be that your dog simply doesn’t understand it fully, in which case you can continue to load the marker by pairing it with something great! Simply say your marker word, or use the clicker, then immediately give your dog a high value treat or engage in a fun game of tuggy! Repeat this several times to create a strong association that marker = something great happens. If your dog is responding to the marker at other times such as in another location or when doing other training, non-response to the marker may actually be a stress response. If your dog is ignoring you, or the muzzle, they may be avoiding interaction due to feeling worried or stressed. Avoidance can be really subtle, such as simply not wanting to look at the muzzle, appearing to 'ignore' you, and offering displacement behaviours such as sniffing around, scratching, yawning or perhaps engaging in play elsewhere.  In this case, it's important to take away any pressure and continue to slowly work on building a positive association with the muzzle, before even beginning to work on muzzle training. You may need some support from an accredited, force-free trainer to assist you working through this if you are finding it difficult.   You could take a short break, make a some changes in the environment such as reducing distractions, changing location, or you may need to work on muzzle confidence before training.   My dog won’t go near the muzzle. If your dog is avoiding the muzzle, or is unwilling to engage in training, assess that the issue is definitely the muzzle. Try the exercise in another area, look at your dogs’ body language and ensure they are happy around you and in the space without the muzzle. Read more about understanding your dog's body language here. Once we are confident the muzzle is the problem, you can work on slowing the desensitization process right down.   You can start by simply placing the muzzle out in the room, perhaps on a table or side, carrying it around while you continue your usual daily activities.   You could also use a cheap muzzle, cut up into smaller pieces to start with, until your dog feels more confident. Read more on introducing a muzzle blog My dog keeps running off with the muzzle! Another common problem we come across with muzzle training is the dog grabbing the muzzle in their mouth! If your dog does this, start by marking and rewarding just being around the muzzle, with no grabbing. You may only achieve a second between reinforcement to begin with but you can build slowly until your dog is able to be around the muzzle for several seconds with no grabbing. Here, we are teaching your dog that it is more beneficial to not grab the muzzle. You can also fix the muzzle down by fastening it to a chair leg or using a hook on the wall. This stops your dog from practicing the fun game of stealing and running off with the muzzle, when you will inevitably accidently reinforce the behaviour by trying to get the muzzle back! Also ensure that you are doing training when all of your dogs needs have been met – if your dog has excess energy or wants to play,..   ..if they are feeling hungry and frustrated, this can make it harder for them to focus and concentrate on learning.   I don’t have a muzzle yet but I want to make start on training.   If you are eager to get started on muzzle training but you are waiting for a muzzle to arrive, you haven’t chosen one suitable for your dog and needs, or are unable to get a muzzle right now, you can still make a start on the training process with an alternative object. You could use a cheap pet store muzzle which may not be the best fit, but it is suitable for training. You can also use objects such as flower pots, mugs, empty yoghurt pots, small cardboard boxes or even just your hands!   Basically anything that your dog and safely and comfortably fit their nose into, just to get them used to the feel of it.   My dog seems confused. There are several stages to work through as part of muzzle training and it can be hard to know when your dog is ready to move to the next step. If your dog is required to wear a muzzle by law, or to keep them safe, you will also be feeling a lot of pressure to get your dog to a stage where they are able to wear the muzzle so you rush the process. It is really important to progress at your dogs pace – this means ensuring your dog is fully happy and comfortable with each training step before progressing onto the next step.   If your dog appears confused or worried at any stage, go back to the last step they were comfortable at and repeat that stage again, progressing more slowly.   Muzzle training is different for every dog, some dogs breeze through the process and can feel comfortable wearing a muzzle relatively quickly, whereas some dogs need much more time to work through the stages and progress more slowly – and both are fine! If you have any concerns or need more support on muzzle training, please hire an accredited and force-free trainer or behaviourist to help you.    

Dogs are generally really good communicators and can share how their feeling through their body language and behaviour. It's up to us to learn what they're saying, so we can help them and respond to them in the right way.  A lot of a dogs body language can easily be mistaken for different feelings and emotions so it's also important to look at the dog as a whole and consider the whole picture. Some signs that a dog is feeling comfortable include; a loose posture, a relaxed wagging tail, a soft expression and soft eyes with no signs of tension in the face or body. Signs such as a tucked tail, flattened ears and growling are common, well-known indicators of a dog feeling unhappy, but most dogs will show much more subtle gestures that can often be missed before reaching this stage. These less-obvious signals are called ‘appeasement gestures’ and can include; *Remember that not all dogs will show ALL of these appeasement gestures and these gestures don't always mean that the dog is scared - it's important to consider the context.* It’s also useful to know that a waggy tail isn’t always a happy tail, a stiff or frantic wag can indicate the dog is feeling unhappy! Displacement behaviours are often used by dogs to try and defuse any tension, to distract themselves or as a comfort. The behaviours are often ‘feel good’ behaviours so are replicated in times of stress. Displacements are often shown by people! If we're feeling nervous or worried about something we might play with our sleeves, play with our hair or just try to busy ourselves with something normal to take our minds off what is causing us stress! Dogs are just the same - if they feel worried or nervous they may sometimes do a normal doggy behaviour but out of context or to excess. Some examples include: You can spot if the dog is genuinely doing these behaviours because they are needed (they have an itch, they are tired, they are feeling playful etc) or if they are displacing instead by looking at the whole picture. Look out for appeasement gestures at the same time for more clues as to how your dog is feeling. Zoomies or fidgeting can be a signs a dog is feeling playful and excited, but it can also be an indicator of stress. We see this a lot in puppy/adolescent dogs, but any age dog can show this response. If a dog is worried or stressed they can actually become really bouncy or silly, perhaps gently grabbing you or toys nearby, what appears to be wanting to play chase (but may be avoidance) and just generally appearing excitable. It’s kind of like the dog is saying ‘I feel uncomfortable but I don’t know how to respond so I’ll do this to feel better and diffuse any tension!’ Dogs will often show that they are worried or unsure, simply by avoidance behaviours. This may be really obvious such as skirting around the muzzle or refusing to come near it at all. Some dogs may be much more subtle and simply turn their head or gaze away from the muzzle. If you find that your dog is avoidant, it is important to revisit the basics of building a positive association of muzzle = good stuff happening. You may need to start at a larger distance from the muzzle to begin with, and it’s important to remember that a dog ignoring or seeming disinterested in the muzzle doesn’t always mean they aren’t bothered by it! Watching a dogs’ body language Around the muzzle and during training will give you important information about how they're feeling. Sometimes dogs can have mixed emotions about things – including muzzles! This can mean reading their body language a little more complicated. If a dog is conflicted around the muzzle/muzzle training, they may feel worried by the muzzle but eager to take part in the fun training. You may see signs of avoidance and displacement behaviours. The best way to deal with this situation is to give the dog the option to move away if they feel the need to, take a short break or revisit and earlier, easier step in muzzle training. Further Reading Introducing The Ultimate Muzzle Training Guide – your go-to resource for mastering muzzle training with your dog! Whether you’re a seasoned dog guardian or new to training, this comprehensive digital guide provides a simple, step-by-step approach to introducing and training your dog to comfortably wear a muzzle. Using only force-free, positive methods, this guide is designed to suit any muzzle, making it a must-have addition for anyone looking to ensure their dog's comfort and safety. Instantly downloadable and accessible on any device, this guide allows you to start training right away, no matter where you are! Ready to get started? Download now and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with effective and compassionate muzzle training. SHOP HERE Discover The Muzzle Movement's Force-Free Promise: Committed to ethical training, partnering with like-minded professionals, and supporting force-free rescues and vets. Read More.

Introducing a Muzzle We want our dogs to see their muzzles as a really great thing and to enjoy wearing it. Does your dog get excited when you pick up the lead, or go over to the treat cupboard? This is an example of positive association!  Your dog has learned that when you pick up that lead or approach that cupboard, something really great happens! We can build that same brilliant association with the muzzle by pairing it with fun stuff that your dog thoroughly enjoys, such as food and play. STAGE 1 To start creating this positive association, simply place the muzzle on the floor, and scatter food or toys nearby. If your dog has no guarding issues, you could use some enrichment activities too such as lick or snuffle mats. If possible, you may want to remove the straps of the muzzle if your dog is particularly frightened but most dogs are happy to take part in the enrichment, snaffle up the treats or play around the muzzle. Once your dog is comfortable and happy taking part in enrichment, play or taking treats from around the muzzle on the floor, you can start to use a clicker or marker to specifically reinforce when your dog looks at or sniffs the muzzle. Be careful not to mark and reward anything you don't want such as grabbing or pawing at the muzzle. Take it away and replace it a few times to help your dog get used to the movement and the sounds around the muzzle and offer them plenty of reinforcement on the floor so they continue to see it as a positive thing. STAGE 2 For the next stage, you can repeat the process but start to encourage active engagement. You could do this by placing the muzzle on the floor, marking your dog for any approach towards it, then placing the treat slightly away to reset the position. Gradually increase the distance from the muzzle until you're rewarding from several feet away and your dog is actively re-approaching the muzzle to earn their next treat. Now that your dog has some good reinforcement history of approaching the muzzle, we can also encourage further investigation into the muzzle. Sit nearby the muzzle on the floor and when your dog approaches or investigates it, mark them and place the reward just at the opening of the muzzle. Make sure your slow progress down or split the criteria into smaller stages if your dog is worried by nudging the muzzle and creating a sound or movement. Gradually, we can build the dogs confidence around close contact with the muzzle and encourage them to start putting their nose further in. If your dog is avoiding the muzzle, or is unwilling to engage in training, assess that the issue is definitely the muzzle. Try the exercise in another area, look at your dogs body language and ensure they are happy around you and in the space without the muzzle. Once we are confident the muzzle is the problem, you can work on slowing the desensitization process right down. You can start by simply placing the muzzle out in the room, perhaps on a table or side, carrying it around while you whilst you continue your usual daily activities. You could also start getting the muzzle out at feeding/play times, at a distance your dog is comfortable with, to pair it with a good experience. You could also use a cheap muzzle, cut up into smaller pieces to start with, until your dog feels more confident.   Once your dog has had an introduction to the muzzle on the floor, we can repeat this process with the muzzle in our hand. You may find that your dog is really happy and comfortable at this point but we’d still advise working through each of these steps to solidify your dogs positive association and confidence around the muzzle. Start off by holding the muzzle in your hand and engaging your dog in play with the toy, encouraging them to use nearby enrichment or offering them treats. You don't need to put the muzzle near the dog or try to force any interaction at this point – we are just building that good association to begin with. If you find that your dog is still a little bit worried then by the muzzle now being in a new position, you can fix the muzzle somewhere and repeat this step with a little more distance if required. You can attach it to a hook, stand, chair, or baby gate, then engage your dog in activities nearby. This is also ideal if you're struggling to juggle everything in your hands all at once. When your dog is showing signs of being happy and comfortable around the muzzle being held you can progress to rewarding any movement towards it. This could be as little as looking at it, to actively approaching, sniffing or even nudging the muzzle with their nose. You can take the muzzle away and put it behind your back before representing it in your hand again, to encourage your dog to investigate and explore and gives them a great opportunity to earn more reinforcement. Similarly to the previous step when we had the muzzle on the floor, we can also mark the positive interactions with the muzzle in our hand, and throw or scatter the treats to create some distance between your dog and the muzzle. This sets our dog up to re-approach for another practice and opportunity to reinforce them. Some dogs may be unsure of the noises made by the muzzle. Even if your dog has been muzzled previously you may find that different materials make different sounds. Desensitising to noises made by a muzzle can help at this stage, because when a dog wears a muzzle on their face they will be able to hear noises such as the metal buckle moving, strapping squeaking and bumps and bangs when they knock the muzzle into stuff out and about. Start off by gently tapping the muzzle, jiggling the metal and opening or closing the clasp. You can gently tap the strap on the muzzle or lightly scrape the muzzle on the floor. Pair these strange noises with something great happening such as play or treats and gradually you can increase the intensity of the noises, making sure that you progress super slowly - especially with dogs who are particularly noise sensitive.   Helpful Products The Ultimate Training Guide The Ultimate Muzzle Training guide is an instant digital download which takes you through the muzzle training process from start to finish and is the perfect addition when buying your new muzzle.   The Ultimate Muzzle Training guide is perfect for dog guardians of all skill levels and explains how to train your dog using force-free training methods. An easy-to-read, step by step run through from introducing your dog to their muzzle, all the way through to helping our dogs comfortably wear their muzzle forever. This guide is suitable for ANY muzzle, not just for our Muzzle Movement muzzles!  Once you have purchased the guide, you will automatically receive a link via email for you to download to your phone, tablet or computer – perfect for using on the go or printing out!  KEY FEATURES Get started training straight away with this instant download! Step-by-step guide from start to finish of muzzle training. Available on the go on your phone or laptop - or print a hard copy