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Hands-free muzzle training!

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Hands-free muzzle training!

por Bev Kirk en nov 15 2024
Muzzle training can be a handful – literally! Juggling the muzzle and treats, plus maybe a lead and a clicker, whilst also concentrating on watching your dog’s body language AND thinking about training and timing – it’s no wonder that many guardians find it a daunting prospect! Here, we are going to give you some tips on hands-free muzzle training, to help you if you are finding it difficult to handle everything! At the start of muzzle training, both you and your dog are learning! An ideal way of introducing the muzzle is to start with it placed on the floor. This gives you the opportunity to have your hands free for reinforcement and also prevents you from inadvertently pushing the muzzle towards the dog whilst you are getting into the swing of things. Simply place the muzzle on the floor, and scatter food or toys nearby to create a positive association with the muzzle. Once your dog is comfortable and happy taking treats from around the muzzle on the floor, you can start to use a clicker or marker to specifically reinforce when your dog looks at or sniffs the muzzle. Take it away and replace it a few times to help your dog get used to the movement and the sounds around the muzzle and offer them plenty of reinforcement on the floor so they continue to see it as a positive thing.     To see more, visit our ‘Introducing a muzzle’ blog You can also attach the muzzle to something, so you don’t worry about holding it. When fixing the muzzle somewhere, ensure that the muzzle is at the right height for the do to easily target – it needs to be right at the dogs’ nose height! Some useful items to use for attaching the muzzle are zip ties or Command sticky strips. Some ideas of where to fix the muzzle include: Attaching to a chair: You can use the straps to fix the muzzle to a chair or you could use zip ties.         Use a wall hook: These are easily available from hardware stores or Amazon. They can be attached to the wall, door frames, large heavy furniture such as dressers etc. (Remember to follow manufacturers guidance when sticking them and use a removable sticky strip such as Command if you want to be able to take it off again!) Simply hang the muzzle from the hook!   Make a muzzle stand: You can easily make a moveable muzzle stand at home! You could use something like a tripod or even a metal adjustable food bowl holder as the stand. If it is lightweight, you may need to weight it down at the bottom to prevent larger dogs from knocking it over. You can either zip tie the muzzle directly to the stand or affix a wall hook to the stand. A muzzle stand works really well as you can usually still access the treat hole of the muzzle for easy reinforcement!     We hope this blog has been helpful if you have been juggling too many things whilst muzzle training! To find out more about muzzle training, take a look at out downloadable e-guide!   
Keeping your dog safe at Christmas

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Keeping your dog safe at Christmas

por Bev Kirk en nov 11 2024
Christmas is an exciting and enjoyable time of year, but it brings its own special stresses too, for people and dogs! With so much to think about it can be easy to overlook some potential risks to your dog.   Muzzle training can be a really helpful too as it is beneficial for dogs who love to snaffle up anything and everything in the home or out and about. It is a great option for management to use alongside training short term, as well as being a more permanent option if needed. If your dog is not muzzle trained currently, it is well worth considering as an option for the future to help during the Christmas period.     It is important to make sure you use muzzles safely, and only when your dog is happy and comfortable to wear them for longer periods. Remember – we advise that dogs are never left muzzled when unattended. Never force a muzzle onto your dog with no prior desensitisation as it could be a really unpleasant experience for them. You can find out how to introduce a muzzle or check out our muzzle training e-guide    One of our muzzles key features is the awesome treat hole at the front, which allows dogs to still receive treats even when muzzled. However we recognise that this isn’t an ideal feature for scavenger dogs! That’s why we designed our patent-pending scavenger guard, which clips onto the front of the muzzle to cover the treat hole and front panel of the muzzle. This stops dogs from being able to pick up objects which may have otherwise fit through the holes at the front.   Find out more about our Scavenger Guards.   Have a read through to see some things to be mindful of this holiday season, to make sure you and your dog can have a safe Christmas!       Dangerous FoodsNothing says Christmas like cupboards full of tasty treats and delicious festive snacks! It’s important to remember that a lot of these can be dangerous for dogs. Most guardians are already aware of the risks and take care with chocolates in the house but be extra vigilant on walks around town, in case you come across tubs of chocolates and sweets that customers can help themselves too…and maybe a cheeky pup! Chocolate contains Theobromine and many sweets contain Xylitol – both of which can cause stomach upsets at best, organ failure and can be fatal.   Don’t forget to keep your Yule Log safely out of reach and avoid placing any chocolate decorations low on the Christmas tree.   Another ingredient to look out for are raisins. Christmas snacks like mince pies, Christmas cake, Christmas Pudding and panettone all contain raisins, so ensure they are safely stored in cupboards. Even a small number of ingested raisins can be very dangerous. Don’t forget grapes are also toxic so make sure any included with your cheese boards are safely out of reach! Another consideration is cooked bones. Most dogs love to have a little treat of some Turkey on Christmas Day but cooked bones are a no-no. They can splinter when chewed and sharp shards can cause serious damage to a dogs’ mouth and digestive tract. They could also cause a blockage so make sure any bones are safely disposed of, preferably in a bin outside or that a dog cannot reach   that meaty smell could tempt most dogs to raid the bin!   If you are leaving food out on the table or sides for the family or guests to enjoy, consider limiting access for your dog with a baby gate if they are okay with that. If they are comfortable to be muzzled but enjoy a little counter surfing, this is an ideal opportunity to put the muzzle to good use and still make sure your dog can enjoy the company!   Festive PlantsIf you are planning to deck the halls with boughs of festive foliage, remember that some common Christmassy plants are toxic to dogs. Make sure they are displayed up high and check regularly for any dropped leaves or berries that you dog may have access too. Toxic plants to consider are Poinsettias, Holly berries, Mistletoe and Ivy. Usually, these plants can cause irritation to the skin or upset tummy if digested,   but always contact a veterinarian if your dog eats or comes into contact with potentially dangerous plants.   Chewing temptations If your dog is partial to having a nibble…or even taking a chunk out(!) of things, there are some considerations to take around the festive period. A beautiful Christmas tree full of bright, colourful baubles and decorations can be very tempting to a dog who sees it as a huge toy box in the lounge! Take extra care if you hang glass ornaments on the tree, as these could shatter and cause a lot of damage if chewed or eaten by dogs. Beautiful fairy lights also pose a risk of electrical burns or electrocution if they are chewed so ensure all cables and tucked safely away and consider limiting un-monitored access to the tree for your dog if they are a chew-risk, or using a muzzle if you are unable to keep a close eye on them.   Remember to never leave a muzzle dog unattended.   Tinsel can seem like a great shredding toy to many dogs who find the fuzzy, reflective stuff too tempting to leave alone! However, it may pose a risk of causing a blockage if ingested so ensure it is safely out of reach. Management around peopleChristmas is an exciting time, often resulting in excitable and loud children, changes in routines and lots of visitors in the home. Some dogs may cope just fine with all this, take it in their stride or even enjoy the extra hustle and bustle, but many can find this time of year overwhelming and unsettling.     It's a good idea to create a safe space for them if they don’t already have one. Create a little den a few weeks before, somewhere quiet that visitors or over-excited children don’t have access to. This could be an open crate or cosy corner in a room with a baby gate on. Ensure your dog has a comfy, familiar bed, some of your dogs’ favourite toys and some enrichment activities. Regularly offer them some tasty treats or chews there to build up a positive association to help them see this as a good, safe place.     Using Pet Remedy can also help dogs to feel more calm meaning they may cope better with the disruption. Did you know you can get a whopping 25% off Pet Remedy products when you use the code THEMUZZLEMOVEMENT   If your dog is unsure about being left alone and would rather be a part of the party, but may get a little excited around running kids, visiting dog or new people, using a muzzle (as long as the dog is fully muzzle trained) can be a really helpful option to keep everyone safe.     Here at the Muzzle Movement, we LOVE Christmas and we hope you now feel prepared and confident with keeping your dog safe and happy this festive season, and see the benefits of muzzle training your dog to help in the future! We have also created a whole range of seasonal muzzle goodies for you and your dog – from stickers, jumpers and tees to muzzle strapping, collars, leads and even our special mystery boxes!   Check out our Christmas range We hope you have the most magical Christmas from all at The Muzzle Movement!
Target Training – a top trick for before, during and after muzzle training!

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Target Training – a top trick for before, during and after muzzle training!

por Bev Kirk en nov 06 2024
What is Target Training? Target training is teaching your dog to touch a target (a mark or object) with part of their body (paws, nose, whole body!) Teaching paw targets to marks on the floor or whole body targets (stand, sit or down) on a mat are really useful and fun activities to teach your dog! We are going to be concentrating on nose targeting as it ties in well with muzzle training and can help to build your dogs’ confidence before, during and after muzzle training! Before: We can teach our dogs to nose target items such as plant pots, yoghurt pots, mugs or cups before your muzzle even arrives! It’s a great way to get your dog confident and happy with putting their nose into something in preparation for muzzle training. Teaching your dog to nose target your hand is also a really useful skill for engagement and moving your dog without conflict.   During: During muzzle training, we teach our dogs to nose target the actual muzzle! So the skill of nose targeting objects such as yoghurt pots is really transferable and useful. We want to be able to hold the muzzle in front of our dogs and they willingly nose target (put their nose inside) the muzzle.   If your dog is already happy to touch their nose on and in objects, it means that the process of muzzle training is already less scary and overwhelming! After: If your dog is already muzzle trained, you can introduce or practice nose targets to build your dogs’ confidence when moving around wearing their muzzle. If you make sure it’s a fun, engaging activity with lots of easy wins and reinforcement – it can help to build a positive association with wearing a muzzle. It is also a good way to get them used to the muzzle moving round or bumping slightly on their face as it inevitably will in the real world when they sniff and engage in activities on their walks. Before we get started… Using a marker in training What is a marker? Usually, it is either a clicker or word. A marker is used to bridge the gap between seeing a desired behaviour and getting a reinforcer to the dog. It says 'that was the behaviour I wanted, a treat is on it way!’. Once your dog understands their marker word, it allows us to communicate really clearly the exact moment we want to reinforce. It can be any word you want but popular markers are ‘good’, ‘yes’, ‘wow’ or ‘yip’. How do I teach my dog a marker? In an area with low distractions, call your dogs name. As soon as they look at you say your marker word and immediately reinforce them (give them a treat or engage in play). Repeat several times in multiple sessions. · Your dog will soon associate: marker = something great is about to happen. ·Check your dog's understanding by waiting for them to be a little distracted and say the marker word. If they ignore or don't notice, you need to do some more repetitions. If they look at your ready for their reinforcer, you’re good to go! How do I target train my dog? Nose target to hand: Most people use an open palm or a closed fist as the hand target so choose which works for you. If using an open palm, tuck a treat in between your fingers or if using a closed fist, hold the treat in your fist. Present the hand near your dog (not too close that it’s right in their face!) and as soon as they move their head towards or sniff your hand, immediately give them the treat! Repeat this a few times until they get the game. If your hand signals for sit, wait, paw or any other behaviours is an open palm, use a closed fist or even the back of your hand as the target instead to avoid confusion! Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present it a little closer to make it easier for your dog.   Next, present your hand with NO treat and as soon as your dog touches your hand with their nose, use their marker word and give them a treat from your other hand, a pot/treat pouch etc (this called ‘mark and reward’). If you dog doesn’t respond at any time, put your hands behind your back then re-present your hand a little closer to make it easier for your dog. Once your dog seems to understand and is consistently targeting your hand with their nose, you can add in the verbal cue or command. Again, the cue can be any word but popular choices are ‘touch’ or ‘boop’. Say the verbal cue first then immediately present your hand, and mark and reward your dog for the target. It’s as easy as that! To progress your dogs’ hand target, practice presenting your hand from different angles and be sure to train with each hand. You can gradually increase how far your hand is presented from your dog to start encouraging them to move to touch your hand. Most dogs really enjoy it when you add in some more energy and movement as it feels more like a game! If you have already muzzle trained your dog, you can also practice hand targets while muzzled so they can have a fun experience in their muzzle. It can also be a nice way to get your dog moving comfortably when muzzled.   Nose target to a physical object: Ideas for physical markers: Post-it note Sticker Tupperware Lid Plastic Plat Credit card Cone Frisbee Choose a physical marker that you’d like to use and place it on the floor. If your dog seems disinterested, you can place a couple of treats on or around the target and as soon as they take the treat, use their marker word and put their reward on the target too. This encourages them to return to the target so you get another opportunity to mark and reward! Repeat several times. Now, sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food on the target and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or touches the target with their nose, mark and reward them! You can now give their reward from your hand rather than on the target. Repeat several times until your dog is consistently putting their nose on the target. To add in the verbal cue, lift the target off the ground. Say your cue - something like ‘target’ or ‘press’ are common choices, then immediately place the target back on the floor, mark and reward when your dog touches it with their nose. You guessed it....repeat several times! To check your dogs’ understanding of the verbal cue, leave the target on the floor, wait a few seconds then say the cue again. Mark and reward if your dog targets it with their nose and keep practicing with the target remaining in position. If you dog seems unsure, repeat the process a few more times until the association of the cue and the behaviour is built. Once your dog has got it, you can build on the game by moving the target to different areas or even sticking it to the wall or door. If your dog is muzzle trained you can now practice the nose target to a physical mark whilst wearing their muzzle! Target training to help muzzle training  Nose targeting a pot: If you don’t have a muzzle or are waiting for one to arrive, you can still make a start on building your dogs’ confidence with putting their nose in something! You can use an item like a plant pot or a yoghurt pot to practice! Place the pot on the floor on its side with a couple of treats sprinkled around it. Let your dog sniff and investigate. Once they seem comfortable, put a treat at the opening of the of the pot. Once your dog has taken a couple of treats this way, put the treat a little bit further inside. Repeat several times and only progress if your dog looks happy and comfortable. Now it’s time to see if your dog chooses to put their nose towards the pot themselves! Sit and do nothing for a few seconds! Don’t put any food in the pot and give your dog a little bit of time to see how they respond. If they seem confused or frustrated, then repeat step 1 a few more times. If your dog moves towards, sniffs or put’s their nose towards the pot, mark and reward them! Repeat several times. Gradually be more selective about when you mark and reward your dog - start to only reinforce them for their nose being at the opening of the pot, then when their nose goes inside the pot slightly, and build until your dog is putting their nose right into the pot! You can practice with the pot held in your hand and in different places around the house, garden and on walks!  
Muzzle Training Troubleshooting

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Muzzle Training Troubleshooting

por Bev Kirk en nov 06 2024
Muzzle training isn’t always plain sailing! We are asking a dog to do something really different and quite strange... By trusting us to put their face into this colourful, unusual object, so it’s not surprising that we can sometimes run into some teething problems. Here, we will look at some of the common problems when muzzle training and how to overcome them! My dog is being naughty when muzzle training! If you feel your dog is mis-behaving during training, there is usually an underlying cause to the behaviour. Dogs aren’t just naughty – they are usually responding to the way they are feeling so remember to stay positive and don’t tell your dog off or punish them for ‘bad’ behaviour. If they are feeling a bit overwhelmed and unsure, this can easily make them feel worse and create a negative association with you, the muzzle and training in general. Try to stay patient and consider what reason your dog may have to behave in this way. My dog is ignoring me. If your dog doesn’t respond to you whilst training, it’s important to work out why. Are they ‘ignoring’ your marker word or clicker? It may be that your dog simply doesn’t understand it fully, in which case you can continue to load the marker by pairing it with something great! Simply say your marker word, or use the clicker, then immediately give your dog a high value treat or engage in a fun game of tuggy! Repeat this several times to create a strong association that marker = something great happens. If your dog is responding to the marker at other times such as in another location or when doing other training, non-response to the marker may actually be a stress response. If your dog is ignoring you, or the muzzle, they may be avoiding interaction due to feeling worried or stressed. Avoidance can be really subtle, such as simply not wanting to look at the muzzle, appearing to 'ignore' you, and offering displacement behaviours such as sniffing around, scratching, yawning or perhaps engaging in play elsewhere.  In this case, it's important to take away any pressure and continue to slowly work on building a positive association with the muzzle, before even beginning to work on muzzle training. You may need some support from an accredited, force-free trainer to assist you working through this if you are finding it difficult.   You could take a short break, make a some changes in the environment such as reducing distractions, changing location, or you may need to work on muzzle confidence before training.   My dog won’t go near the muzzle. If your dog is avoiding the muzzle, or is unwilling to engage in training, assess that the issue is definitely the muzzle. Try the exercise in another area, look at your dogs’ body language and ensure they are happy around you and in the space without the muzzle. Read more about understanding your dog's body language here. Once we are confident the muzzle is the problem, you can work on slowing the desensitization process right down.   You can start by simply placing the muzzle out in the room, perhaps on a table or side, carrying it around while you continue your usual daily activities.   You could also use a cheap muzzle, cut up into smaller pieces to start with, until your dog feels more confident. Read more on introducing a muzzle blog My dog keeps running off with the muzzle!   Another common problem we come across with muzzle training is the dog grabbing the muzzle in their mouth! If your dog does this, start by marking and rewarding just being around the muzzle, with no grabbing. You may only achieve a second between reinforcement to begin with but you can build slowly until your dog is able to be around the muzzle for several seconds with no grabbing. Here, we are teaching your dog that it is more beneficial to not grab the muzzle. You can also fix the muzzle down by fastening it to a chair leg or using a hook on the wall. This stops your dog from practicing the fun game of stealing and running off with the muzzle, when you will inevitably accidently reinforce the behaviour by trying to get the muzzle back! Also ensure that you are doing training when all of your dogs needs have been met – if your dog has excess energy or wants to play,..   ..if they are feeling hungry and frustrated, this can make it harder for them to focus and concentrate on learning.   I don’t have a muzzle yet but I want to make start on training.   If you are eager to get started on muzzle training but you are waiting for a muzzle to arrive, you haven’t chosen one suitable for your dog and needs, or are unable to get a muzzle right now, you can still make a start on the training process with an alternative object. You could use a cheap pet store muzzle which may not be the best fit, but it is suitable for training. You can also use objects such as flower pots, mugs, empty yoghurt pots, small cardboard boxes or even just your hands!   Basically anything that your dog and safely and comfortably fit their nose into, just to get them used to the feel of it.   My dog seems confused. There are several stages to work through as part of muzzle training and it can be hard to know when your dog is ready to move to the next step. If your dog is required to wear a muzzle by law, or to keep them safe, you will also be feeling a lot of pressure to get your dog to a stage where they are able to wear the muzzle so you rush the process. It is really important to progress at your dogs pace – this means ensuring your dog is fully happy and comfortable with each training step before progressing onto the next step.   If your dog appears confused or worried at any stage, go back to the last step they were comfortable at and repeat that stage again, progressing more slowly.   Muzzle training is different for every dog, some dogs breeze through the process and can feel comfortable wearing a muzzle relatively quickly, whereas some dogs need much more time to work through the stages and progress more slowly – and both are fine! If you have any concerns or need more support on muzzle training, please hire an accredited and force-free trainer or behaviourist to help you.    
Autumn Dangers for dogs and how muzzle training can help!

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Autumn Dangers for dogs and how muzzle training can help!

por Bev Kirk en oct 04 2024
We are here for the spooky vibes (we even have a Halloween range!, the cosy décor and the beautiful dog walks – but we know there can be lots of dangers for dogs who scavenge. Muzzle Training Can be so beneficial for dogs who love to snaffle up anything and everything in the home or out and about. It is a great management tool to use alongside training short term, as well as being a more permanent option if needed. (Please note: we never recommend leaving any dog muzzled whilst unattended). One of our muzzles key features is the awesome treat hole at the front, which allows dogs to still receive treats even when muzzled – however we recognised that this isn’t and ideal feature for scavenger dogs! That’s why we designed out patent-pending scavenger guard, which clips onto the front of the muzzle to cover the treat hole and front panel of the muzzle. This stops dogs from being able to pick up objects which may have otherwise fit through the holes at the front. Find out more about our Scavenger Guards HERE. If you have a dog who scavenges and would like to look at the option of muzzling them to keep them safe – remember that you need to invest the time into muzzle training your dog thoroughly to ensure they are happy and comfortable to wear the muzzle. Never force a muzzle onto your dog with no prior desensitisation as it could be a really unpleasant experience for them. You can find out how to introduce a muzzle HERE or check out our muzzle training e-guide HERE   Let’s take a look at some of the common dangers that dogs may come across in Autumn. Acorns: Acorns can easily be snaffled up by dogs and can cause an upset stomach from the Tannic Acid they contain. If a dog was to eat a lot of acorns, there is the potential for them to get liver or kidney failure. Some dogs may also swallow them whole which could be a choking hazard or cause a blockage further down the digestive system.  Anti-freeze and grit: With frozen windscreens becoming a common sight in the morning, people begin to reach for the anti-freeze. This is easily spilt and unfortunately has a very sweet smell and taste which can be tempting for dogs to lick. It can also be hard for guardians to spot on the floor. Ethylene Glycol is a toxin which can cause serious damage to a dogs’ organs even when consumed in small quantities. It can be fatal for dogs so is a serious danger and veterinary treatment should be sought immediately if you think your dog has been exposed. Similarly, some types of road grit can contain anti-freeze, posing a serious danger to dogs. Along with this, road-grit is often primarily salt-based. Too much salt intake can cause issues with dehydration and electrolyte imbalances in dogs so ensure your dog doesn’t have access to lick grit and make sure to wash their paws after each walk.  Chocolates and sweets: Spooky season is upon us and not only does that bring kids in costumes, apple bobbing and ghoulish decorations but of course it also brings plenty of sweet treats for those trick-or-treaters! Most guardians are already careful with chocolates in the house but be extra vigilant on walks during the week of Halloween, in case you come across dropped chocolates and sweets from excited children, or buckets and bowls of the yummy stuff left out for trick-or-treaters. Chocolate contains Theobromine and many sweets contain Xylitol – both of which can cause stomach upsets at best, organ failure and can be fatal.  Conkers: Nothing says Autumn like collecting beautiful, shiny Conkers! However, they can pose some dangers to our scavenger dogs! Conkers contain a toxin called Aesculin which can cause upset tummies, and when eaten in larger quantities can affect the organs and even be fatal. If swallowed whole, they can also be a choking risk and could cause a blockage in the dogs’ digestive system.    Fallen Fruit: You may come across fallen fruit and berries in Autumn. Many dogs enjoy a piece of apple or some blueberries at home but allowing a dog to forage in windfall fruit is not a safe practice. Fallen fruit is often mouldy or fermenting which can cause stomach upsets in dogs and may be more serious if lots are eaten. The fruit may contain stones or pips which can also be poisonous. Fruit stones can be a choking hazard and a blockage risk too. Many berries are also toxic to dogs such as Juniper berries, Holly berries, Elderberries and Nightshade, to name a few.  Fireworks: Fireworks season is dreaded by many guardians whose dogs find the noise frightening, but another concern for guardians of scavengers are the litter and debris from exploded fireworks. The shells and packaging of the fireworks can fall in gardens and you may come across it on walks too. The debris may be sharp and could contain harmful chemicals, making it a risk to dogs who ingest it.  Fungi: The damp conditions of Autumn are perfect for all kinds of mushrooms, toadstools and fungi to grow. They are often a tempting snack for snuffling dogs too – and whilst some are completely harmless, there are some varieties which can be very dangerous and its often hard to tell them apart. Effects of eating unsafe fungi can range from an upset tummy, right though to distressing hallucinations, organ damage and even death.   Hedgehogs: Hedgehogs are starting to hibernate at this time of year and may be hidden in hedgerows or fallen leaves making them hard to spot - but dogs can sniff them out! This is obviously a risk to the poor, resting Hedgehog but is also an almost guaranteed spike in the snoot for your dog!  Rodent Poison: As the colder temperatures creep in, so do the small furries looking for somewhere warm and dry to live! Autumn can bring an increase of rats and mice being seen in or near homes, sheds and garages which may prompt people to put out rodent poison. This isn’t always done safely, and rats have been known to carry and drop poison on their way back to their nests. Rats and mice who have died due to poison ingestion may also pose a poison risk to anything that eats them. Unsurprisingly, rodent poison can have fatal effects on dogs who eat it. Commonly used kinds of rodent poisons contain Anticoagulants resulting in internal bleeding. Slugs and snails: Whilst slugs and snails can pose a risk year-round, the damp weather often means they are out in the open more and they commonly lay their eggs in late Summer/early Autumn. Slugs, snails and their larvae can carry a parasite called Lungworm which can cause breathing problems, heart issues and if left untreated, can be fatal. It is important that if you suspect your dog has eaten anything listed above to immediately contact your vet for advice and treatment. Autumn can be a worrying time for guardians of scavengers, but being armed with the knowledge of what could be dangerous and taking steps to try to avoid the ingestion of them means you can enjoy those beautiful frosty mornings, crunchy golden leaves and misty skies! Using a muzzle with a scavenger guard can give you peace of mind this Autumn. The information in this article has been independently reviewed and approved by a veterinary surgeon registered with the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons, as of October 2024.
Understanding your dog

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Understanding your dog

por Bev Kirk en sept 16 2024
Dogs are generally really good communicators and can share how their feeling through their body language and behaviour. It's up to us to learn what they're saying, so we can help them and respond to them in the right way.  A lot of a dogs body language can easily be mistaken for different feelings and emotions so it's also important to look at the dog as a whole and consider the whole picture. Some signs that a dog is feeling comfortable include; a loose posture, a relaxed wagging tail, a soft expression and soft eyes with no signs of tension in the face or body. Signs such as a tucked tail, flattened ears and growling are common, well-known indicators of a dog feeling unhappy, but most dogs will show much more subtle gestures that can often be missed before reaching this stage. These less-obvious signals are called ‘appeasement gestures’ and can include; *Remember that not all dogs will show ALL of these appeasement gestures and these gestures don't always mean that the dog is scared - it's important to consider the context.* It’s also useful to know that a waggy tail isn’t always a happy tail, a stiff or frantic wag can indicate the dog is feeling unhappy! Displacement behaviours are often used by dogs to try and defuse any tension, to distract themselves or as a comfort. The behaviours are often ‘feel good’ behaviours so are replicated in times of stress. Displacements are often shown by people! If we're feeling nervous or worried about something we might play with our sleeves, play with our hair or just try to busy ourselves with something normal to take our minds off what is causing us stress! Dogs are just the same - if they feel worried or nervous they may sometimes do a normal doggy behaviour but out of context or to excess. Some examples include: You can spot if the dog is genuinely doing these behaviours because they are needed (they have an itch, they are tired, they are feeling playful etc) or if they are displacing instead by looking at the whole picture. Look out for appeasement gestures at the same time for more clues as to how your dog is feeling. Zoomies or fidgeting can be a signs a dog is feeling playful and excited, but it can also be an indicator of stress. We see this a lot in puppy/adolescent dogs, but any age dog can show this response. If a dog is worried or stressed they can actually become really bouncy or silly, perhaps gently grabbing you or toys nearby, what appears to be wanting to play chase (but may be avoidance) and just generally appearing excitable. It’s kind of like the dog is saying ‘I feel uncomfortable but I don’t know how to respond so I’ll do this to feel better and diffuse any tension!’   Dogs will often show that they are worried or unsure, simply by avoidance behaviours. This may be really obvious such as skirting around the muzzle or refusing to come near it at all. Some dogs may be much more subtle and simply turn their head or gaze away from the muzzle. If you find that your dog is avoidant, it is important to revisit the basics of building a positive association of muzzle = good stuff happening. You may need to start at a larger distance from the muzzle to begin with, and it’s important to remember that a dog ignoring or seeming disinterested in the muzzle doesn’t always mean they aren’t bothered by it! Watching a dogs’ body language Around the muzzle and during training will give you important information about how they're feeling. Sometimes dogs can have mixed emotions about things – including muzzles! This can mean reading their body language a little more complicated. If a dog is conflicted around the muzzle/muzzle training, they may feel worried by the muzzle but eager to take part in the fun training. You may see signs of avoidance and displacement behaviours. The best way to deal with this situation is to give the dog the option to move away if they feel the need to, take a short break or revisit and earlier, easier step in muzzle training. Further Reading Introducing The Ultimate Muzzle Training Guide – your go-to resource for mastering muzzle training with your dog! Whether you’re a seasoned dog guardian or new to training, this comprehensive digital guide provides a simple, step-by-step approach to introducing and training your dog to comfortably wear a muzzle. Using only force-free, positive methods, this guide is designed to suit any muzzle, making it a must-have addition for anyone looking to ensure their dog's comfort and safety.   Instantly downloadable and accessible on any device, this guide allows you to start training right away, no matter where you are! Ready to get started? Download now and enjoy the peace of mind that comes with effective and compassionate muzzle training. SHOP HERE   Discover The Muzzle Movement's Force-Free Promise: Committed to ethical training, partnering with like-minded professionals, and supporting force-free rescues and vets. Read More.        
Introducing a Muzzle

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Introducing a Muzzle

por Bev Kirk en sept 11 2024
Introducing a Muzzle We want our dogs to see their muzzles as a really great thing and to enjoy wearing it. Does your dog get excited when you pick up the lead, or go over to the treat cupboard? This is an example of positive association!  Your dog has learned that when you pick up that lead or approach that cupboard, something really great happens! We can build that same brilliant association with the muzzle by pairing it with fun stuff that your dog thoroughly enjoys, such as food and play. STAGE 1 To start creating this positive association, simply place the muzzle on the floor, and scatter food or toys nearby. If your dog has no guarding issues, you could use some enrichment activities too such as lick or snuffle mats. If possible, you may want to remove the straps of the muzzle if your dog is particularly frightened but most dogs are happy to take part in the enrichment, snaffle up the treats or play around the muzzle. Once your dog is comfortable and happy taking part in enrichment, play or taking treats from around the muzzle on the floor, you can start to use a clicker or marker to specifically reinforce when your dog looks at or sniffs the muzzle. Be careful not to mark and reward anything you don't want such as grabbing or pawing at the muzzle. Take it away and replace it a few times to help your dog get used to the movement and the sounds around the muzzle and offer them plenty of reinforcement on the floor so they continue to see it as a positive thing. STAGE 2 For the next stage, you can repeat the process but start to encourage active engagement. You could do this by placing the muzzle on the floor, marking your dog for any approach towards it, then placing the treat slightly away to reset the position. Gradually increase the distance from the muzzle until you're rewarding from several feet away and your dog is actively re-approaching the muzzle to earn their next treat. Now that your dog has some good reinforcement history of approaching the muzzle, we can also encourage further investigation into the muzzle. Sit nearby the muzzle on the floor and when your dog approaches or investigates it, mark them and place the reward just at the opening of the muzzle. Make sure your slow progress down or split the criteria into smaller stages if your dog is worried by nudging the muzzle and creating a sound or movement. Gradually, we can build the dogs confidence around close contact with the muzzle and encourage them to start putting their nose further in. If your dog is avoiding the muzzle, or is unwilling to engage in training, assess that the issue is definitely the muzzle. Try the exercise in another area, look at your dogs body language and ensure they are happy around you and in the space without the muzzle. Once we are confident the muzzle is the problem, you can work on slowing the desensitization process right down. You can start by simply placing the muzzle out in the room, perhaps on a table or side, carrying it around while you whilst you continue your usual daily activities. You could also start getting the muzzle out at feeding/play times, at a distance your dog is comfortable with, to pair it with a good experience. You could also use a cheap muzzle, cut up into smaller pieces to start with, until your dog feels more confident.   Once your dog has had an introduction to the muzzle on the floor, we can repeat this process with the muzzle in our hand. You may find that your dog is really happy and comfortable at this point but we’d still advise working through each of these steps to solidify your dogs positive association and confidence around the muzzle. Start off by holding the muzzle in your hand and engaging your dog in play with the toy, encouraging them to use nearby enrichment or offering them treats. You don't need to put the muzzle near the dog or try to force any interaction at this point – we are just building that good association to begin with. If you find that your dog is still a little bit worried then by the muzzle now being in a new position, you can fix the muzzle somewhere and repeat this step with a little more distance if required. You can attach it to a hook, stand, chair, or baby gate, then engage your dog in activities nearby. This is also ideal if you're struggling to juggle everything in your hands all at once. When your dog is showing signs of being happy and comfortable around the muzzle being held you can progress to rewarding any movement towards it. This could be as little as looking at it, to actively approaching, sniffing or even nudging the muzzle with their nose. You can take the muzzle away and put it behind your back before representing it in your hand again, to encourage your dog to investigate and explore and gives them a great opportunity to earn more reinforcement. Similarly to the previous step when we had the muzzle on the floor, we can also mark the positive interactions with the muzzle in our hand, and throw or scatter the treats to create some distance between your dog and the muzzle. This sets our dog up to re-approach for another practice and opportunity to reinforce them. Some dogs may be unsure of the noises made by the muzzle. Even if your dog has been muzzled previously you may find that different materials make different sounds. Desensitising to noises made by a muzzle can help at this stage, because when a dog wears a muzzle on their face they will be able to hear noises such as the metal buckle moving, strapping squeaking and bumps and bangs when they knock the muzzle into stuff out and about. Start off by gently tapping the muzzle, jiggling the metal and opening or closing the clasp. You can gently tap the strap on the muzzle or lightly scrape the muzzle on the floor. Pair these strange noises with something great happening such as play or treats and gradually you can increase the intensity of the noises, making sure that you progress super slowly - especially with dogs who are particularly noise sensitive.   Helpful Products The Ultimate Training Guide The Ultimate Muzzle Training guide is an instant digital download which takes you through the muzzle training process from start to finish and is the perfect addition when buying your new muzzle.   The Ultimate Muzzle Training guide is perfect for dog guardians of all skill levels and explains how to train your dog using force-free training methods. An easy-to-read, step by step run through from introducing your dog to their muzzle, all the way through to helping our dogs comfortably wear their muzzle forever. This guide is suitable for ANY muzzle, not just for our Muzzle Movement muzzles!  Once you have purchased the guide, you will automatically receive a link via email for you to download to your phone, tablet or computer – perfect for using on the go or printing out!  KEY FEATURES Get started training straight away with this instant download! Step-by-step guide from start to finish of muzzle training. Available on the go on your phone or laptop - or print a hard copy      
Why we shouldn't be using muzzles to prevent our dogs from chewing

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Why we shouldn't be using muzzles to prevent our dogs from chewing

por Clara Hewson en nov 05 2023
Why we should't be using muzzles to stop dogs from chewing We know that muzzles have a range of fantastic uses for dogs, from keeping dogs, people and animals safe, to preventing dangerous scavenging. A common use for a muzzle which we see is to prevent dogs from inappropriate chewing, however using a muzzle for this purpose doesn't get to the driver behind the behaviour - it just stops the dog from physically being able to chew. In this blog, you will find a comprehensive overview exploring the implications of using a muzzle to prevent a dog chewing.  When a dog starts destroying household items that are expensive or hold sentimental value, it is often considered inappropriate. But this may be dependent upon the humans expectations, as some may not be concerned about the occasional spontaneous shoe explosion. However, chewing becomes of particular concern when the items can harm them, such as electrical cords, toxic plants, or sharp objects. This behaviour is increasingly concerning if the dog is or is likely to ingest the items that it chews.   In addition, if a dog repetitively chews objects to the point where it interferes with their daily routine, such as eating, playing, sleeping, or interacting with people, it may be indicative of compromised welfare. Some dogs may develop destructive chewing habits because of feelings of stress or boredom.   A dog chewing inappropriate items can sometimes be indicative of an underlying medical condition. There are several medical conditions that can lead to increased chewing behaviour in dogs, such as dental problems, gastrointestinal issues, nutritional deficiencies, and allergies.   When a dogs chewing is considered inappropriate It is important to consult with a qualified, ethical professional such as a veterinarian and/or Behaviourist to rule out any potential medical causes for the behaviour and to develop an appropriate treatment plan.  Muzzles are a great tool to help aid training in many contexts, such as dog interactions or vet trips. Muzzle use is appropriate if the guardian is going to be present, the muzzle is well fitting, and the dog is properly conditioned to wearing a muzzle in advance. Many will choose to utilise a muzzle as they continue to progress through a training plan, which can include prevention of ingesting dangerous items, or to prevent chewing, when supervised, in the short term - alongside a comprehensive plan written by an ethical canine professional.  However, muzzles should not be used to inhibit a dog from performing a natural normal behaviour – unless that behaviour is putting the animal at risk, and then the muzzle would only be appropriate as part of a wider training programme and the dog never left unattended.   Inappropriate Chewing, such as when the dog is home alone, is likely an attempt to feel better. By placing a muzzle on the dog, it will prevent them from being able to chew, but it won’t stop the dogs need to chew.   If the dog is using chewing as a coping mechanism for feelings of frustration, anxiety or boredom and we don’t provide them with that outlet, there is a risk that the dog will find other inappropriate coping mechanisms and it is likely that once the muzzled is removed, the chewing will continue or may even cause the chewing to escalate further. Medical Considerations There are a wide variety of compelling reasons as to why we shouldn’t muzzle a dog to prevent chewing, but particularly without a guardian present.   For example, the dog may start to panic, attempt to remove the muzzle, or begin chewing the muzzle itself. Without a guardian to remove the muzzle, this could potentially lead to the dog injuring themselves.   This could involve them using their paw to try and remove the muzzle, which may lead to them getting a claw caught and causing damage to their claw, paw, and mouth.  The dog could move their head around excessively to remove the muzzle. This could lead to a strain in the neck and back area if this took place for extended periods of time.  They could rub their muzzle against objects, getting the muzzle caught which could in serious cases lead to strangulation. In less serious cases could result in facial irritation, hot spots, or sores.   The dog may chew and ingest parts of the muzzle itself which could have medical implications.   The risks of using a muzzle to prevent chewing increase further if the muzzle is poorly fit and doesn’t allow the dog to perform vital behaviours such as chewing, drinking, and eating.   And finally, a dog could be chewing excessively due to pain or discomfort. Ignoring this might lead to further medical implications as well as continued compromised welfare.  Behavioural Considerations Placing a muzzle onto a dog to prevent chewing is ignoring why a dog is chewing, and there are many potential motivating factors to consider.   If a dog is chewing when a guardian leaves the home, chewing may be an attempt to reduce stress and help relieve anxiety, which could result in further distress if the dog is then muzzled an unable to self sooth. In addition, the dog may learn that the muzzle is a pre-curser to being left unattended which is likely to cause negative associations with the muzzle rendering it unusable in the future alongside not helping to change the way that the dog is feeling when they are left.  If dogs are chewing due to feeling under-stimulated or bored and we muzzle them, we are limiting their access to appropriate outlets, which could lead to increased boredom and potentially even barking as their physical and mental needs continue to be unmet.  Chewing can be a displacement behaviour if a dog is feeling frustrated. Placing a muzzle on a dog who is chewing due to feelings of frustration is likely to cause further frustration, because they are no longer able to access something they needed to help regulate their emotions. Which may result in other frustration related behaviours such as barking, jumping, restlessness, pawing, scratching or even continued and more vigorous attempts to chew – either with the muzzle on, or once the muzzle comes off.   We also may inadvertently cause a dog to feel frustrated when they weren’t previously by adding a muzzle and their expectations of being able to pick up, chew or carry objects no longer being met. Or alternatively frustration caused by a new lack of autonomy, due to feeling stuck or trapped in a muzzle that they themselves cannot remove.   Some dog’s love to chew and explore with their mouths more than others and find it fun. Age should be taken into consideration, and it is normal for puppies and adolescent dogs to use their mouth to explore the world. By preventing exploratory behaviour or not providing alterative safe outlets, we are thwarting learning opportunities and potentially missing indicators that our dogs are feeling unfulfilled.  If a muzzle is not properly conditioned and fit, or the dog feels that there is no way out of their current situation (in this case, out of the muzzle) they may not feel they are able to perform normal dog behaviours. As a result, the dog may experience ‘learned helplessness’ where they no longer attempt to perform normal behaviours, which could result in the dog not feeling comfortable enough to move, drink or eat.   Alternatively, behaviours may be temporarily suppressed, but reoccur later either in the same form such as increased intensity of chewing once the muzzle is removed, or in other inappropriate ways such as chewing is perceived as no longer available and therefore begin jumping, grabbing, and mouthing once the muzzle is removed.   Additionally, dogs may or may see a muzzle being placed on as punishment, especially if there has been no previous muzzle training and the muzzle only appears when chewing starts. The consequences of a dog feeling uncomfortable in a muzzle particularly if it is continuously forced upon them, is that they will become fearful and avoidant of the muzzle. There may be increased sensitivity around the head and neck area. Which may lead to further issues if the dog were to need their ears, eyes, neck area to be examined and receive future medical treatment such as eye or ear drops, kennel cough vaccines or oral health checks. Fear or dislike of the muzzle may also impact your ability to use a muzzle again in other contexts which could mean you are unable to get one on in a legitimate situation such as a medical emergency.   And finally, arguably most importantly, inappropriate muzzle use could result in a breakdown in the relationship between dog and guardian, which can result in more challenging behaviours to navigate moving forwards.  AUSTRALIA Pet Professional Guild Australia IAABC *LIMA based approach, please research to check trainers with this accreditation are force-free* APDT Australia IMDT Australia EUROPE / SOUTH AFRICA IAABC *LIMA based approach, please research to check trainers with this accreditation are force-free* CABTi / COAPE UK ABTC APBC APDT UK IMDT PACT FABC CABTi / COAPE VSPDT / VSA-CDT PPG British Isles USA CCPDT *LIMA based approach, please research to check trainers with this accreditation are force-free* Fear Free VSPDT / VSA-CDT KPA-CDT PPG US Additionally, if you have concerns that there might be an underlying medical cause, or even if you feel there is a possibility, consult a with a veterinarian to determine if there is any physical pain or discomfort that might require treatment.   Your trainer or behaviourist may also advise you to:  Dog-proof your home: to avoid rehearsal of chewing inappropriate or dangerous items. For some dogs this is easier than others. For example, a prolific shoe chewer might benefit simply from the shoes being removed from the hallway, whereas a dog that’s chewing skirting boards or doors may need a more extensive behaviour modification programme – which should always be carried out with a force free behaviourists support.  Make sure their needs are met: a dog that feels unfulfilled is more likely to express unwanted or undesirable behaviours. Ensure that they have had adequate mental and physical stimulation, considering age, breed and individual preferences. Some dogs might need more exercise, others might need more human contact time, whereas others might need more sleep.  Increase Enrichment: outlets for chewing behaviour (such as long-lasting chews / boxes / variety of toys / interactive food toys that are appropriate for the dog's size and breed). But please note, when giving the dog enrichment this should be done with the guardian present initially to ensure that it is both safe and enjoyable for the dog and the guardian should assess which enrichment the dog loves to do. Enrichment should be easy for the dog to do initially; it should not be too difficult as this could lead to frustration.  Look for triggers: a really great way to get a head start with your trainer or behaviourist is by being able to track and recognise triggers for inappropriate chewing. Such as people walking by a window or someone leaving the home and where possible these triggers should be reduced or removed completely initially and re-introduced later with the support of your force free professional.   Limit alone time: particularly in the case of dogs that exhibit separation related behaviour, or we believe chewing to be associated with distress when left unattended, we may need to reduce or remove time spent alone in the short term. A dog walker sitter or walker could be useful and helpful to help break the day up for the dog while you are working with your trainer.   Teaching skills such as drop and leave: two useful skills that might help you better manage what you dog is chewing and prevent accidental ingestion due to humans applying pressure to drop or leave an item causing the dog to swallow in order to not loose it.That said, there are some very extreme cases where muzzles may be used to prevent chewing – so we also ask that you remain non-judgemental if someone says that they do. There are some serious, challenging, complex reasons that a guardian or trainer may resort to muzzling in an attempt to prevent chewing, but this should only be done upon the recommendation of a qualified ethical professional.    For example, if a dog’s life if in danger, such as chewing which results in self-injurious behaviour, the dog is recovering from a surgery to remove a foreign object and a second surgery is not possible, a dog has a severe medical condition or a dog that has a history of ingesting poisonous or hazardous items.  And even in these few extreme circumstances, the dog should still have a guardian present, and the muzzle be appropriately introduced and well fit. 
The Best Muzzle Options for XL Bully Breeds: A Comprehensive Guide

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The Best Muzzle Options for XL Bully Breeds: A Comprehensive Guide

por Clara Hewson en oct 31 2023
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The Best Muzzle Options for XL Bully Types: A Comprehensive Guide At the Muzzle Movement we adore all bull breeds. In fact, Atlas, an honourable member of our MM team is an 11 month old large bull breed cross, and if you follow us on instagram, you'll know he is quite a cheeky chap! This ban is devastating for many dog guardians all over the UK, us included, as although Atlas isn't an XL bully, he may still fall under the broad type the government have defined.    We are heart-broken for anyone who loves or cares for an XL bully type in any capacity, and want to help guide you through appropriate muzzle options so you can make an informed decision. However, we would like to remind you that many dogs have and do wear muzzles full time, and still love happy, fulfilled, joyful lives.  All XL bully types will be required to wear a muzzle when out in public after the 31st of December 2023. This means that you need to introduce the concept of a muzzle to your dog way in advance of the date they are required to wear one. Muzzle training takes time, some dogs become quickly accustomed and comfortable wearing them for long periods relatively quickly. Whereas others who are particularly sensitive to novel objects and sounds, have had an aversive history with muzzles or have sensitivity around the face or neck, may need longer to feel comfortable enough to wear a muzzle outside of the home.  We have an inexpensive muzzle training guide available here, so you can get started from home. And we can recommend local trainers to help you should you need more in-person support.  In this blog post, we will explore the various muzzle options available for XL Bullies, highlighting their benefits and emphasising why it is essential to start muzzle training your XL Bully type as soon as possible.    We believe the best way to combat the association that Xl bully types, or any other muzzled dogs, are 'scary' or 'threatening' is to pick the most playful, fun, non-threatening muzzles.  When gentle, loving dogs are forced to wear muzzles by law, the best form of protest is pink, floral, fun muzzles.    The Muzzle Movement Muzzles   The Muzzle Movement doesn't make custom sized muzzles, instead we have standard sizes and determine which muzzle is suitable by measuring your dog's head and comparing it to our pre-existing range. We are a small start up, that is always introducing new sizes and designs, however we do have one size that may be suitable for XL bully types, called 'Harry'. Atlas is wearing a prototype of this new size in the image above. Harry was designed with bully breeds in mind, and ensures they are provided with adequate pant room, easy treat delivery, the ability to drink as normal and we help to combat this silly ban, by providing you with lots of fun and playful colours, to help minimise the 'scary-ness' of muzzled dogs.   However, this size won't be suitable for ALL bull breeds. As we all know, there is huge variations between different bully types. We have some Xl bully guardians using the size 'Sunny' to train with, since Size Harry didn't begin shipping until December. This size is however going to be too long to use outside of training sessions for most XL bully types. We also have new sizes coming in 2024 that may be more suitable - so sign up to our mailing list to be notified!  Take our muzzle measurement quiz here to see what size muzzle you need for your XL Bully Type.  In the meantime, here are some more brands to consider! Please note, not all brands mentioned below align with our commitment to kind, ethical training methods. We would prefer to only recommend other force free brands, but we also want you to get the best muzzle for your dog so will mention other brands that promote aversive tools, methods and practices and let you make an informed decision.    Custom fit muzzles  For XL Bully types with unique head shapes, custom-fit muzzles are worth considering. These muzzles are specifically tailored to your dog's measurements, so should fit those extra large heads. The muzzle in this image is a custom Vinyl muzzle, there are many custom Vinyl makers but here are a few you might want to check out, if your pup falls outside of our size Harrys recommended range.  https://www.pawfectfit.uk/ https://trust-your-dog.com/en-gb   Another custom option is Biothane muzzles, which are fun, colourful and flexible, making them a nice alternative particularly for dogs that are required to wear a muzzle due to BSL and don't need muzzles to help mitigate risk or reduce the likelihood of a bite.  Here are a few you might want to check out, if your pup falls outside of our size Harrys recommended range.  https://minkymuzzles.co.uk/ https://bumas-muzzle.com/en/ However, custom muzzles can be expensive due to them being hand-made to measure, so here are some other pre-made alternatives!   Wire baskets  Although perhaps further perpetuating the myth that muzzled dogs look (or are) scary, wire basket muzzles can be affordable and still have a large size range.  Please note though, most wire basket brands don't account for pant room when recommending muzzle sizes - you need to make sure you include pant room when selecting a muzzle, and don't base your selections on the breeds the muzzles are named after - this is not an accurate way to know if a muzzle is right for your dog! Get more info on how to select a well fitting muzzle for your dog here. https://www.fordogtrainers.co.uk/ https://www.ljpetsuk.co.uk/ Lightweight plastic  Looking for a cheap, inexpensive training muzzle then you might want to consider a lightweight plastic muzzle! These muzzles might not provide some dogs with room to pant fully, but they are cheap and quick to get so make a great starting point for those who want to get stuck in now, or cant afford anything further just now. https://www.themuzzleshop.com https://companyofanimals.com/uk/brand-product/baskerville-ultra-muzzle/   Please remember - if your budget is small, there is no need to rush and invest in your perfect muzzle straight away. We can all only do what we can with the resources available. If you need to get a temporary muzzle for now, you can always upgrade your muzzle again after the 31st of December.    This type of muzzle is not suitable for long term wear.Soft muzzles, made from materials like nylon or mesh, are designed to be used for short periods. They are not suitable for any dog to wear for longer than 5 minuets, due to restricting the dogs ability to open their mouths and pant comfortably.  We would not recommend even training with a muzzle like in the image above.   Thank you for taking the time to read through, the upcoming XL Bully muzzle ban in the UK is upsetting for everyone, but we hope that in amongst this terrible situation a light can be shone on all muzzled dogs and their responsible humans. Showing everyone that a muzzle is not a 'life sentence'. Many dogs can and do live happy, fulfilling lives wearing muzzles.
Bite proof muzzles? Truth or Myth?

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¿Bozales a prueba de mordeduras? ¿Verdad o Mito?

por Clara Hewson en sept 13 2023
Discuta las implicaciones de afirmar que es a prueba de mordeduras, haciendo referencia a diferentes presiones bucales de perros (¡Kengal con 720 PSI!)